Abyssinian

The Abyssinian (Aby, or Abby) is one of the oldest breeds of guinea pigs. It is recognized by the symmetrical rosette (hair radiating symmetrically from a center) and erect ridge patterns on its body and head. The number of rosettes can vary, but to be shown, an Abby must have at least eight (10 are preferred), and they must be clearly defined. The Abyssinian also has a mustache of raised fur around its nose. The fur is coarse and is found in a multiple of colors and color combinations.

Abyssinian Satin

The Abyssinian Satin has the same appearance as an Abyssinian, but with a satin sheen to the fur. Like the Abyssinian, it must have a pattern of rosettes and ridges, and possess a minimum of 8 rosettes in order to be shown

American

The American, sometimes referred to as the "English" cavy, is the most common breed of guinea pig, as well as one of the oldest. The hair is short, smooth, straight, and sleek. It is found in a wide variety of colors and color combinations and has a Roman nose (wide and curving). Its body is medium length, and of about the same circumference from the shoulder back to the hip.

American Satin

The American Satin has the same appearance as the American, but the coat is fine, dense, and soft, with a glossy sheen, and feels like satin to the touch.

Coronet

The Coronet is a longhaired breed with a single rosette on the top of the head. The hair from the rosette to the rump is long, without a part. It has a Roman nose.

Peruvian

The Peruvian was the first recognized longhaired breed. It is noted for the long, dense, soft "sweeps" of hair that can grow to over a foot in length. The hair on the head grows forward, covering the head, and giving the animal an even, circular appearance when viewed from above. Show Peruvians need regular grooming and the hair is often wrapped to keep it from becoming soiled or tangled. Because of the amount of time and effort needed to groom a Peruvian, this breed is not recommended for a pet, although some owners may trim the hair for easier care.

Peruvian Satin

The Peruvian Satin has the same appearance as the Peruvian, but the coat has a glossy sheen, and feels like satin to the touch.

Silkie

The Silkie, called the "Sheltie" in England, was originally called the "Angora." It is a longhaired breed, but unlike the Peruvian, there is no long, frontal sweep or hair that covers the face. Instead, the hair sweeps back from the head forming a mane, and there is no part down the back. When viewed from above, the Silkie appears tear-shaped. The hair is softer, finer, and tends to be shinier than the Peruvian. As with the Peruvian, the coat needs daily grooming and the hair is wrapped to keep it clean and tangle free.

Silkie Satin

The Silkie Satin has the same general appearance as the Silkie, but the coat has a glossy sheen, and feels like satin to the touch.

Teddy

The Teddy has a short, wiry, dense coat. The hairs, and even the whiskers, are kinked. The coat is resilient, meaning it returns to its original position after being disturbed. The body of the Teddy is similar to the American in length, and it has a Roman nose.

Teddy Satin

The Teddy Satin has the same general appearance as the Teddy, but the coat has a glossy sheen.

Texel

The Texel has long, thick, soft hair that forms ringlets or curls over the entire body, even the belly. The body is short and compact, and the head is broad and well-rounded. Because the hair is both long and curly, this breed is one of the most difficult to keep well groomed.

White Crested

The White Crested has a short, smooth coat with a distinctive white, circular rosette on the top of its forehead. Except for the crest, there should be no other white spots on the animal. There are many color varieties, but cannot include Dalmatian, Himalayan, Dutch, Roan, or Tortoiseshell and White, or other varieties which have white hair elsewhere on the body.

Other color varieties

In addition to breeds, there are many color varieties of guinea pigs. The recognized colors include

 Self: Solid color; colors include black, white, red, beige, chocolate, cream, lilac, and blue

Dutch: Colored head with white blaze; front half of the body white and rear half of the body same color as the head

 Brindle: Intermingling of two colors; one dark and one light color, appearing consistently over the body

Tortoiseshell: Well-defined rectangular patches of black and red, similar in size and distributed evenly and uniformly over the body without running together

 Tortoiseshell & white(TSW): Well-defined rectangular patches of black, red, and white, similar in size; the dividing line between the patches should run down the middle of the back and across the middle of the belly with colors alternating on each side of the division

·         Roan: Darker hairs (e.g., black or red) intermixed evenly with white hairs

                Agouti: Alternate dark and light bands of color on each hair; colors include silver and golden

·         Albino: Pure white with pink eyes

·         Dalmatian: White body with dark spots

·         Himalayan: White body with brown or black nose, ears, and feet; red eyes

In addition, there are various other combinations of two or more colors. For instance, a collared variety exists, which has a different color of hair around the neck.

When Breeding Cavies, always make sure the prospective parents have reached breeding maturity. Females should be 5 months but not older then 10 months for their first litter. Males reach breeding maturity by only 3 months of age. The gestation period for a cavy is 10 weeks and pregnancies are generally problem free. Occasionally sows become pregnant too young, as early as 4 weeks of age this can happen. In this case these sows should be given plenty of vitamin C and calcium.

Signs of pregnancy include: The sows appetite and thirst will increase, you will notice her drinking large amounts of water, however during the last few days before birthing their pups, sows will go off their food. You'll notice her dish not going down and she won't have much interest in anything given to her. Around 7-14 days before birthing, the moving pups will be very noticeable and the sows tend to become irritable.  48 hours before birthing the sows pelvic bones will begin to part.

Sows should not be bred more then 3 times per year as it is best for the overall health of the sow. Sows will develop a noticeable bulge when pregnant and by the last week of her pregnancy you can even see the young pups bouncing around and kicking from within the sow. Be sure that by this time, the boar is removed from the cage with the sow. Sow's go into heat immediately following the birth of her pups and the boar will attempt to mate her again. This is not wise for both her overall heath and the health of the nursing pups. An amorous boar, may also cause injury to the pups, while attempting to mate the sow.

Rules of thumb when breeding- Always be sure the sow and boar are not full siblings, be sure both the boar and sow are in good health and that the sow has not been bred more then 3 times in a 12 month period. Also be sure they are getting lots of vitamin C .

The Birth are usually quick and most times unseen, you'll suddenly notice pups up and about in the cage. Babies are born fully furred, lively and with their eyes open. At birth they weigh approximately 4 oz. The sow will eat the afterbirth following the delivery and this is essential for milk production. If you notice a placenta left in the cage, do not clean it up, the sow will take care of it.

Pups will nurse from their mothers for approximately 4 weeks as well as eating hays and greens. By 4 weeks of age they begin to become fertile so at this time boars and sows should be separated. At this time boar pups can even be placed into their sires cage with him. He may chase them for a bit but the chase soon ends in a settled comfy  and soothing place for the pups.

Sexing the pups- both sows and boars look the same at a very young age. The easiest way to tell a sow from a boar is to look at the Y both sexes will have Y but in the boars there will be a noticeable dot in the cup of the Y and sows what appears like a pimple on the stem.

Housing your guinea pig is limited only by your imagination, ingenuity, and budget. Adequate housing is a major factor in the maintenance of a healthy pet. Important considerations include what it is constructed from, that it provides good ventilation, is easy to clean, and provides plenty of room. There is no single correct way to house your guinea pig as long as its well being is the most important criteria.
   Enclosure can be made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic, or glass; wood is not as good being more difficult to clean and guinea pigs may destroy it by chewing. The size of the enclosure needs to allow for normal guinea pig activity, a minimum size of approximately 2 square feet of space is adequate
   Use bedding materials that are clean, non-toxic, absorbent, relatively dust free, and easily replaced. Some available bedding's for the cage are wood shavings such as aspen and kiln-dried pine (not cedar), shredded paper or Care fresh (a recycled paper bedding), processed ground corn cob, and commercial pellets.
   Keep the cage up on a sturdy stand or table away from cold damp areas, out of drafts, and away from direct sunlight. Guinea pigs have a sensitive nature and are more comfortable in a quiet spot away from noise and stress however it is known that cavies will respond to the voices of their owners as well as music. Put a radio on and watch how your cavy relaxes, this is also true with rabbits. Music is a natural soothr. Keep them in a place to keep where other animals can't get at them. Clean the cage thoroughly with hot water at least once a week.

Housing guinea pigs together can be done, several sows will live happily together in the same cage, in fact will care for each other and huddle together of warmth on cold nights. It is said that two or more sows left together when pups are born, will even share in the nursing duties and care of the young. Boars can also live happily together, they may get into a territorial battle but in most cases it ends with the two becoming companions. HOWEVER in many cases this will be happen, some boars become too territorial  and will not allow another boar to share their space. It is not recommended you place more then 2 to 3 boars that get along together in the same cage, battles can occur, when injury or even death is the outcome.

   Guinea pigs are herbivores so need fruits, vegetables, and grains in their diet. Carbohydrates and fibres are the basis of their diet. They have a high Vitamin C and folic acid requirement and unlike most mammals, they cannot manufacture their own vitamin C. It must be provided in their diet. A good staple food is guinea pig pellets, found in pet stores, and provides all these essential nutrients. Rabbit pellets will not work as they are not equivalent in nutritive value.
    Even with the guinea pig pellet though, much of the necessary vitamin C is lost in a short amount of time. You should supplement their pellets with a vitamin C supplement either by offering a small piece of a chewable tablet or a small amount of liquid drops; alternatively a handful of kale, cabbage or other dark leafy greens high in ascorbic acid.
    Other additions to the guinea pig's diet should be made carefully. The majority of their diet should be pellets along with the Vitamin C supplements mentioned above. The balance of their diet includes the addition of fresh greens, timothy / grass hay, and small amounts of fruit. Some of these supplements can include such things as lettuce, carrots, apples, tomatoes, cilantro, parsley, endive, kale, cucumber, strawberries, and grapes. An excellent food for them is bell pepper (especially red bell pepper), because it is high in Vitamin C. Grass can also be given, but make sure it is pesticide or spray free.
   You should always remove any non-eaten greens, veggies or fruit at the end of the day. Food should be put in heavy china or pottery dishes (making it harder for them to spill the contents) and should be thoroughly washed with hot water at least twice a week.   
   Also make sure that a constant water supply is available, as water is very important. Gravity-flow water bottles, which can also be found in pet stores, are a good idea.

See Below, the lists of, safe, dangerous and questionable snacks for your cavies. Also included are edible plants and plants that are poisonous if eaten by both cavies and other small animals. Certain fruits and vegetables contain higher amounts of much needed vitamins there for are considered the "better" snacks, but variety is always a healthy way of feeding your animals. Of course all should be given in moderation along with their normal daily portion of pellet feeds and hay.

Vitamin C Rich foods are as follows :
- Guinea pig pellets with stabilized vitamin C - alfalfa based for young pups, pregnant & nursing sows, slim or sick pigs; timothy based for healthy, grown, chubby pigs (do not substitute rabbit or chinchilla pellets; avoid mixes with nuts, seeds or colored bits) Though these colored bits may look appetizing, all they contain is "junk" that is not needed for keeping a healthy pet.

- Beet greens
- Bell / Sweet Peppers - red, green, yellow NEVER HOT
- Broccoli Rabe / Rabe / Rapini
- Broccoli, Broccolini (stems are liked better than flowers)
- Brussels Sprouts
- Cabbage (in moderation)
- Chinese cabbage (in moderation)
- Cantaloupe Melon
- Carrot tops / leaves
- Cauliflower / Broc-coflower
- Celery leaves
- Cilantro / Chinese Parsley / Coriander greens
- Collard greens
- Currants - yellow, red or black (leaves also edible)
- Dandelion greens
- Feijoa / Pineapple Guava
- Garden Cress
- Gooseberries
- Grapefruit (caution - sores around lips can develop)
- Grass - wheat, winter rye (grown in pots from seed)
- Guava
- Honeydew Melon
- Kale - curly or plain
- Kiwi Fruit
- Kohlrabi leaves
- Lemon, Lime (home-grown best, otherwise feed cautiously)
- Mango
- Mustard greens / Leaf Mustard
- Orange (caution - sores around lips can develop)
- Papaya / Paw Paw / Tree Melon
- Parsley - curly or plain (high in calcium)
- Peas in pods, Pea Shoots (not dried)
- Persimmon - american or oriental
- Red Cabbage
- Rosehip
- Savoy Cabbage
- Spinach (feed in moderation, linked to formation of kidney & bladder stones)
- Strawberries
- Swiss Chard, Red Chard
- Tamarillo (leaves poisonous)
- Tangerine / Mandarin (caution - sores around lips can develop)
- Tomato (sores around mouth can develop; leaves poisonous; artificially
grown can be low in vit C)
- Tuscan Cabbage / Cavolo Nero
- Water Cress



 Others foods, good for your cavy the are not rich in Vitamin C :

- Hay - timothy, meadow, alpine and others (must always be available)
- Alfalfa - green or dried (high calcium & calories - good for youngsters, pregnant & nursing sows)

- Anise
- Apple (avoid seeds; if too tart, sores around lips & mouth can develop)
- Apricot
- Artichoke
- Arugula / Rocket / Roquette / Rucola
- Asian Pear
- Asparagus
- Banana (feed in great moderation - can cause constipation)
- Basil
- Beets
- Belgian Endive
- Bilberries
- Blackberries
- Blueberries
- Carrots (feed in moderation, vit A in carrots said to cause liver problems)
- Celery Root / Celeriac
- Celery stalks (cut into small pieces)
- Cherries (remove pits)
- Chicory/Endive
- Chives (caution, feed in moderation)
- Choy sum
- Corn on the cob (strings, leaves & stalks are edible too)
- Crabapple
- Cranberries (whole fruit, not concentrate or juice)
- Cucumber (fresh only, not pickled)
- Dates (dried high in sugar)
- Dill
- Figs (dried high in sugar - as treat only)
- Frisee Lettuce
- Grapes (in moderation, high in sugar)
- Green Beans in pods / String Beans (not dried)
- Green Endive
- Green Leek tops (caution, feed in moderation)
- Green Onion tops (caution, feed in moderation)
- Kohlrabi bulbs
- Lettuces - red, green, butter, Boston and other (avoid iceberg)
- Mint
- Nectarine
- Paksoi / Bok Choi
- Parsley root
- Parsnip
- Passion Fruit / Granadilla
- Peach
- Pear
- Pineapple - fresh (sores around lips & mouth can develop)
- Plum, Prune (dried high in sugar - as treat only)
- Pumpkin
- Radicchio / Italian Chicory
- Radishes (if mild)
- Raspberries
- Romaine Lettuce
- Rutabaga
- Salad mix (without iceburg lettuce)
- Squash - acorn, banana, butterhorn, spagetti, and others (feed in
moderation)
- Sweet Onions (caution, feed in moderation)
- Thyme
- Treviso Radicchio
- Turnip
- Watermelon (can cause diarrhea - high water content)
- Yam / Sweet Potato (high in vit A? - leaves edible)
- Zucchini


Safe wild grasses, plants and herbs that your Cavy and other small animals can eat:

- Anise (Pimpinella anisum)
- Blackberry leaves (Rubus plicatus) - pick young & tender leaves and
shoots
- Calendula (Calendula officinalis) - leaves and flowers
- Caraway (Carum carvi)
- Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis)
- Chickweed (Stellaria media)
- Cleavers / Stickyweed / Goosegrass / Bedstraw (Galium aparine)
- Clover (Trifollium repens or Trifolium pratense)
- Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
- Cow Parsley (Anthiscus sylvestris)
- Cowberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaeae) - berries, leaves in moderation
- Dandelion (Teraxacum officinale) - pick leaves, stems, flowers (root OK)
- Dog Rose (Rosa canina) - ripe fruits
- Duckweed (Lemna minor) - aquatic
- Fennel (Foeniculum capillaceum)
- Field Violet / Wild Pansy (Viola tricolor)
- Grass (common grasses are edible, avoid ornamental grasses)
- Groundsel (Senecio vulgaris)
- Lemon Mint / Melissa (Melissa officinalis)
- Linden / Lime Tree (Tilia cordata or Tilia platyphyllos) - flowers with pale
yellow leaflets
- Miner's Lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata)
- Pepermint (Mentha piperita)
- Plantain (Plantago major or Plantago lanceolata)
- Raspberry leaves (Rubus idaeus) - pick young & tender leaves and shoots
- Shepherd's Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
- Silverweed (Potentilla anserina)
- Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica)
- Whortleberry / Heidelberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) - berries, leaves in
moderation
- Wild Chamomile (Matricaria chammomilla)
- Wild Strawberry (Fragaria vesca) - berries and leaves
- Yarrow (Achllea millefolium)

 ALWAYS be sure you know what you are picking! be sure to pick from places free of contaminants such as pesticides , exhaust fumes or animal urine ; pick plants that are healthy looking, without insect damage, fungus spots, breakage, or wilting


Dangerous foods:
- Avocado (too high in fat)
- Coconut (too high in fat)
- Dry beans and peas
- Flowers (commercially grown decorative plants contain preservatives &
pesticides)
- Fried, cooked and otherwise prepared foods
- Fruit juices (sugar-free, or unsweetened juices are OK)
- Garlic or pungent onions (will not poison pigs, )
- Horseradish (leaves probably ok, root too pungent)
- Hot herbs and spices
- Hot Peppers / Chiles / Paprikas
- Iceburg Lettuce (low nutrition, high water)
- Jams, jellies and fruit preserves (too high in sugar)
- Milk and milk products
- Mushrooms
- Nuts (too high in fat)
- Peanut butter, cakes, cookies, baked goods
- Pickled veggies (dills, capers, sour krauts)
- Potatoes (poisonous if green or sprouted) - sweet potatoes / yams are ok
- Rhubarb (poisonous)
- Seeds (choking hazard)
- Taro (dangerous if eaten raw / unprepared)
- Teas, coffee, colas

- Wild grasses, plants and herbs that you are unsure of, or that look different
from ones you know

Poisonous plants deadly to animals if eaten:
- Aconite
- Amaryllis
- American Holly
- American Nightshade
- Anemone
- Angel's Trumpet
- Antirrhinums
- Azalea
- Bird of Paradise
- Birdseye Primrose
- Bittersweet
- Blue Cardinal (Lobelia)
- Bluebells
- Bryony
- Bulbs-(any plants grown from bulbs)
- Buttercup (Ranunculus)
- Caladium
- Cherry leaves (contain cyanide and are most potent when they are wilting)
and leaves of other stone fruits (fruits with pits)
- Chrysanthemum
- Clematis
- Columbine
- Corn ****le (type of grassy plant with a rather large lacey grain head)
- Crocus
- Cyclamen
- Daffodil
- Dahlias
- Daily
- Dog mercury
- Evergreen trees
- Fig
- Figwort
- Fools parsley
- Foxglove (Digitalis)
- Hellebore
- Hemlock
- Holly
- Hyacinth
- Hydrangea
- Iris
- Ivy
- Jerusalem cherry
- Juniper
- Kingcup
- Laburnum
- Leyland cypress
- Lily (All species)
- Lords and Ladies
- Lupine
- Lupins
- Marsh marigold
- Meadow saffron
- Mistletoe
- Monkshood
- Morning glory
- Nightshade (deadly and woody)
- Oleander
- Onion
- Philodendron
- Pigweed (amaranth - certain North American varieties may be toxic)
- Poinsetta
- Poppies
- Potatoes (poisonous if green or sprouted) - sweet potatoes / yams are ok
- Privet
- Ragwort
- Red maple leaves
- Rhododendron
- Rhubarb
- Spurges
- St Johns wort
- Tulip
- Tomatillo leaves & stalks
- Tomato leaves & stalks
- Vetch
- Walnut or Black Walnut
- White clover(red clover in small amounts is okay)
- Wisteria
- Wolfsbane
- Yew



QUESTIONABE foods:  There is no evidence that these foods are healthy or unhealthy for your small pet so they should be used with caution, if your pet shows any signs of illness or seems listless following eating these, please do not feed the item again.

Asian Fruit and Vegetables: (I tried to include names in various languages when possible)
- Abiu / Caimo / Canistel / Dan Huang Guo
- Baby Bok Choy
- Bamboo Shoots
- Banana Leaves
- Betel Leaves / La Lop
- Bitter Melon / Bitter Gourd / Balsam Pear / Balsam Pod (must remove
seeds)
- Chinese Broccoli / Gai Lum / Kai Lan / Kairan
- Chinese Cabbage / Wong Baak / Kubis Gna / Hakusai
- Chinese Chard / Bok Choy / Pak Choy / Pak Tsoi / Pechay
- Chinese Flowering Cabbage / Choy Sum / Sawi Manis / Saishin
- Chinese Keys / Khao Chae / Suo Shi / Temu Kunchi (like ginger)
- Chinese Long Beans / Yard-Long Beans / Asparagus Beans / Dau Gok
- Chinese Mustard / Gai Choy / Kaai Tsoi / Mustaa / Ha Karashina / Cai Xanh
- Chinese Spinach / Amaranth / Een Choy / In Tsoi / Bayam / Santonsai
- Chocolate Fruit / Black Persimmon / Black Sapote / Kaki Noir
- Durian / Dourian / Lau Lin
- Ginger Root
- Hairy Melon / Moa Gua
- Jute / Jew's Mallow / Meloukhia / Meloukhiya Sheitaani
- Kaffir Lime Leaves
- Longan / Litchi Ponceau / Loon Ngan / Lengkleng (like Lychee)
- Lychee
- Mangosteen / Saan Jook / Manggis
- Pe-Tsai Cabbage
- Sin Qua / Luffa - smooth and angled
- Soursop / Guanabana
- Star Apple
- Taro / Woo Tau / Dalo / Sato-Imo leaves (leaves ok? raw taro root
poisonous )
- Water Spinach / Convolvulus / Ung Choy / Yeung Choy / Kang Kung
- White Radish / Daikon / Loh Baak / Mu
- White Sapote / Casimiroa
- Winter Melon / Wax Melon / Dong Gua
- Yam / Shuyu / Ubi / Yama Imo (this tuber is safe for guinea pigs to eat)
- Yam Bean / Jicama / Di Gwa / Sinkamas / Seng Kuang / Kuzuimo (root ok?,
leaves & stems poisonous)

Other Fruit and Vegetables:
- Acerola- West Indian, Pitanga, Surinam, Sour, Sweet
- Babaco
- Borage
- Breadfruit
- Burdock
- Canned veggies
- Cardoon
- Cassava / Yucca Root
- Catus
- Chayota
- Cherimoya
- Custard apple
- Dock
- Eggplant
- Fern bracken - Fiddlehead Fern shoots
- Ginger
- Jujube (high vit C)
- Kailan
- Kiwano
- Komatsuna
- Kumquat
- Lemon Grass
- Longan
- Loquat
- Mizuna
- Okra
- Opuntia Cactus
- Oregano
- Plantain banana (needs cooking, high starch)
- Pomegranate
- Quince
- Rosemary
- Sage
- Sakata
- Salsify / Oyster plant
- Sapodilla
- Sorrel
- Soy beans and soy products (too high in protein?)
- Star fruit
- Sugar Cane (too high in sugar?)
- Tapioca (too high in starch & calories?)
- Yucca
 

When picking up a guinea pig make sure not to only grab it by it's shoulders. Pick it up evenly with your hands supporting it's entire body, and be careful not to drop it.

Guinea pigs can be very vocal at times, but each sound and action they make has a meaning of it's own.

Touching each others noses- Is a greeting and acknowledgement
Murmurs, gurgles and grunts- Contentment and comfort
Jumping- Happiness
Squeaking- Pain, loneliness or begging for food
Cooing- Calming sound, reassurance
Sitting or standing up- Begging for food
Tilting head at an angle- Signaling strength
Lowering head and growling- Fear or offering of peace
Rattling, hissing, teeth chattering- aggression, warning the enemy, trying to impress
Mouth Wide Open showing teeth- Female rejecting males advances
Stretching head forward- Watchfulness, alertness
Retracting legs under the body, pressing against a wall- Helpless need for protection
Turning rigid- "Playing" Dead to distract the enemy
Extending head- Fear could panic
Grunting- Friendly greeting
Stretching- Relaxed comfort
Growling, grunting, rattling- Male mating sounds

Then of course is the Cavy song. When several pigs are kept together in the same room, a squeak from one can set off a serious of squeaks from several, almost sounding the a little Cavy choir. Rattle a bag and see what your cavy or cavies do.  It is amazing how quickly they learn various sounds and know what is coming. A rattling bag to them means a treat is coming and they begin to squeak in a begging fashion. So pay attention when you're busy with your cavies and I assure you, you will hear that cavy song lol.

Guinea pigs are hardy animals and rarely get sick. However, if not taken care of properly they can become ill. Most ailments are preventable simply from taking proper care of the animal.
   Signs that the animal is not feeling well include: listlessness, huddling in a corner, a dull matted coat, refusing food, labored breathing, runny noise, watery eyes, and constipation. In most cases, there are medications available at pet stores which can be used to aid in treating the animal. In other cases a trip to a veterinarian may be required.
      Upper Respiratory Infections (URI) - The indications that your guinea
pig has a URI or even pneumonia are weight loss, runny eyes and nose, coughing, sneezing, and labored breathing. Respiratory diseases are generally caused from being in drafts and/or damp bedding. Make sure he is taken out of drafts and the cage is completely clean and dry, and place a dry cloth over the cage.
   Occasionally, middle or inner ear infections accompany respiratory disease, additional symptom in these cases include lack of coordination, torticollis (twisting of the neck) circling to one side and rolling.
     Pneumonia - Pneumonia is one of the most common bacterial diseases of the pet guinea pig. Many of the disease causing organisms inhabit the respiratory tracts and conditions of stress, inadequate diet, and improper husbandry will often predispose a pet to this ailment. Symptoms may include difficulty breathing, discharge from the nose and eyes, lethargy, and loss of appetite. In some cases, sudden death will occur without any of these signs.
     Diarrhea: If your guinea pig has watery droppings and appears to have diarrhea, then the cause is most likely from having too many fresh greens, fruits, or iceburg lettuce. The simple remedy to this is to remove them completely and not feed them at all for a few days until he appears to be getting better. Then slowly re-introduce greens by giving them every few days. A fecal float done by your vet will determine whether your guinea pig's diarrhea is caused by parasites.
     Scurvy: If you notice that your guinea pig seems in pain, is losing a little weight and has a general loss of condition, it may be scurvy. This is caused from a deficiency in Vitamin C. Feed your pet more fruits and vegetables especially those high in Vitamin C. There are also liquid vitamins you can add to the water, but they loose their effectiveness rather quickly and make the water taste bad. Other symptoms of scurvy are swollen painful joints and ribs, reluctance to move, poor bone and teeth development, spontaneous bleeding especially from the gums, into joints and in muscle, if left untreated this disease can be fatal.
     Constipation: If it appears that your guinea pig is constipated, then it is most likely either not getting enough greens or water, so check both of those. Feeding a little romaine lettuce dipped in mineral oil, can help the relieve the condition.
     Lice and Mites: If your guinea pig is constantly scratching, it could be a sign that it has either lice or mites, which are parasites that live on the skin. A skin scraping by your veterinarian may be necessary to diagnose this problem. The only way to treat this is Ivermectin or Selemectin. Follow your vets orders.
     Fleas and Ticks: Fleas and ticks are bigger than lice and mites, but cause the same scratching and discomfort as lice and mites. Completely clean and disinfect the cage. The best way to naturally control fleas is as simple as a flea comb, hot soapy water, and a good vacuum cleaner. A home remedy used for dogs and cats is to season their food with brewer's yeast and garlic, a natural flea repellant. Medication designed for cats can is often suggested for use, but a cat treatment flea dip can be harmful. Flea products are known to have caused deaths and illness in pets, so despite strong warning labels, we are hesitant to recommend them.
      Ringworm: Ringworm is a fungus infection on the skin. It is best to go to a veterinarian for this.
     Coccidiosis: Signs of this disease include diarrhea, loss of appetite, and listlessness. It is a protozoan parasite and is spread from contaminated food. The feces also carry it, so the guinea pig can be re-infected through it's own droppings. Make sure the cage is thoroughly cleaned everyday to reduce the chances of this happening. Take the guinea pig to the veterinarian in order to obtain effective medication. A fecal analysis is the only way to correctly diagnose coccidiosis.
      Heat Stress - Guinea Pigs are very susceptible to heat stroke particularly
those that are overweight/and or heavy furred, inadequate shade and
ventilation contribute. Signs of heat stroke include panting, slobbering,
weakness, reluctance to move, convulsions and ultimately, death.
      Footpad Infection (Bacterial Pododermatitis) - Commonly caused among guinea pigs housed in cages with wire flooring, fecal soiling of the wire potentiates the problem. Symptoms include swelling of the affected feet, lameness and reluctance to move. Consult your veterinarian for treatment.
      Enteritis-Bacterial - Causing infections of the gastrointestinal tract through contaminated greens, vegetables or water. Most common bacteria that cause intestinal disease is Salmonella spp. Other bacterial species that may cause diarrhea and enteritis are E.Coli, Clostridium spp etc... in addition to diarrhea other common symptoms for intestinal disease are lethargy and weight loss. Supportive care is required, fecal floatations and cultures can be useful.
     Slobbers/Dental malocclusion - Slobbers is the condition where the fur under the jaw and down the neck remains wet from the constant drooling of saliva. The primary cause for this condition is overgrowth of the premolars and /or molars. An overgrown tooth causes injury to the tongue resulting in an inability to chew and swallow food, drooling down the chin and neck, and weight loss. Diagnosis is confirmed by your veterinarian. A correction of diet is often required as low fibre diets are a possible causative factor. Periodic trimming or filing of the teeth by a veterinarian is usually necessary. Guinea pigs with this problem should not be bred since dental malocclusion can be
hereditary.
     Barbering (Hair Chewing) - Hair loss is a common problem in guinea pigs. 'Barbering' is just one of the many causes of it. This vice (bad habit) occurs when guinea pigs chew on the hair coats of other guinea pigs that are lower than them in the social 'pecking order'. The dominant 'pig' and main culprit is identified by its normal, full hair coat while others have areas of alopecia (hair loss). There is no treatment for this condition except separating the guinea pigs if it becomes a serious problem.
   Hair loss or hair thinning can occur for a number of other reasons as well. It is a common phenomenon among sows who are repeatedly bred or weakened, newly weaned juvenile guinea pigs. Certain fungal diseases and external parasite infestations also influence hair loss problems.